How To Make A Mini Boned Bodice (Part 1)

Step 1: Trace Origin Pattern

Before tracing the pattern, square all corners. With your new pattern, center front dart and back shoulder dart. Ensure side seams match.

Step 2: Balance Armhole

Balance the armhole in the back bodice by removing ½ from the front bodice side seam to the back side seam.

Step 3: Match Shoulders

Match shoulders and redraw neck and armhole.

Step 4: Trace Out Fresh Pattern

Trace out the new pattern with new adjustments.

Step 5: Draw In Design Lines

Draw in armhole princess lines design lines & notches. Drop armhole at least ¼” - ½”. Scooped front and back neck – wider is better. Elongate front waist 2” or less.

Step 6: Separate Pattern

Cut Pattern apart along princess seams

Step 7A: Cut Factory Cotton

Cut the pattern into 2 layers of factory cotton. Seam allowances (1” side seams. 1 3/8” CB; 1/2” everywhere else). Take your ruler and criss-cross all corners – drawing stitching lines out to the edge of the fabric- as per the picture. Draw in CF and CB lines.

Step 7B: Cut Fashion Fabric

Cut pattern in 1 layer of fashion fabric. Seam allowances (1” side seams; 1 3/8”CB; 1/2” everywhere else). Take your ruler and criss cross all corners – drawing stitching lines out to edge of fabric as per picture. Draw in CF and CB lines.

Step 9: Machine Flat Basting

Pin one right side to one wrong side as per picture. Ensure that you have one clean right side and one wrong side with all markings. Flat by machine the two layers of muslin together all round on stitching lines.Use a larger #3 machine stitch in matching colour. Accuracy matters. After flat basting, press pieces together.